Since our connecting flights to Lima began in Amsterdam, we took the opportunity to arrive two days early and explore the city. An exceptionally beautiful city greeted us, and the first thing we smelled upon leaving the airport was, of course, cannabis. We could not shake the feeling that we had stumbled into a kind of future utopia. There were electric-car charging points in people’s courtyards; most residents travelled by bicycle or scooter along dedicated cycle lanes; and there were many—very many—Teslas, some used as taxis. In short, it was idyllic. A very expensive idyll.
We stayed at the rather smart Dutch Design Hotel Artemis, somewhere between the airport and the centre. Amsterdam is an expensive city, especially when it comes to hotels and hostels, but by searching carefully, early, and in the right places, we found this hotel for less than a hostel bed would have cost. Tram 2 runs from the hotel into the centre and is included in National Geographic’s list of the world’s ten best tram rides. The grand claim proved justified: along the way we could see some of the main attractions—museums, canals, and historic buildings.
On our first day, with no hurry and no firm plan, we wandered around the centre, drank local beer at a canal-side café, and watched the boat traffic and coffee-shop enthusiasts. We had lunch in Amsterdam’s Chinatown, where we tried Thai noodles. On every trip, we eventually find ourselves in a Chinatown of the sort found in most large cities around the world, because we both love Asian food. Asian food is usually on the inexpensive side, but do not expect that in Amsterdam. Two simple bowls of noodles and two Thai teas cost us about as much as a meal during Riga Restaurant Week.
Central Amsterdam is wonderfully cosy. Bicycles are parked against railings along the canals; cafés line the waterfront; and coffee shops occupy the basements of buildings. Naturally, we also walked through the red-light district. The red lights had not yet been switched on, but the women were already at their windows, inviting passers-by inside in seductive outfits.
The following day, I wanted to visit both the Rijksmuseum, the museum of Dutch art, and the Van Gogh Museum. I suspected we would have to choose one, because each takes several hours and I enjoy lingering over the details. I opted for Impressionism, and Jānis voted for Van Gogh too. On the way, we got off the tram a few stops early, bought fresh pastries and coffee from a bakery, and headed to Vondelpark for breakfast. Jānis and I agreed that it was one of the loveliest parks we had ever visited. It strikes a perfect balance between allowing nature to run free and shaping it through human care. Alongside the well-kept paths and little bridges, you can also venture into the park’s wilder thickets.
Jānis was taking his first steps into the world of art and had eagerly hoped to see The Starry Night at the Van Gogh Museum, but that painting is at MoMA in New York. We did, however, see the famous Sunflowers. The audio tour and accompanying descriptions painted a vivid picture of this unique, persistent, deeply sensitive man. Near the end of his life, despite mental illness, Van Gogh cultivated his unmistakable, brilliant style and produced his finest paintings. It was also a pleasure to see work by his contemporaries and friends, including Paul Gauguin.
After the museum, we took a boat trip along Amsterdam’s canals. If time is short, this is an excellent way to see the city and gain a sense of its different neighbourhoods. I particularly enjoyed Jordaan and the barges that people have chosen as homes despite the practical inconveniences.
One more gelato each, and then, slightly tired, we returned to the hotel. The next day brought the long flight to Lima, Peru.
Amsterdam is a city to which we will certainly return!